The other week, right before Kate went in for radiation, we spent the weekend in Bolinas at the little mesa house. I got up early Sunday morning, before the sunrise, and walked down with my long board to sneak a quiet moment with the Pacific.
At first, I had the fog wrapped beach all to myself and the soup was so thick that I couldn’t see the break from the shore or, once I paddled out, the shore from the break. As the sun started coming up, the fog burned off and I was joined by two surfers and a guy with his camera floating around at the break taking pictures. At the end of my session, we walked out of the water at the same time, chatted a little bit, and he offered to send me some of the pictures.
Let’s just say my expectations were exceeded.
Photo credit: Peter Shumar
